Black & White – Walkthrough (walkthrough)


Black & White - Walkthrough

Von: "Elliott"

INDEX
1. Version History
2. Introduction
3.Doesn't exist
4. The Basic Gameplay
4.1 Playing Good
4.2 Playing Evil
5. Creature Training
5.1 Basic knowledge
5.2 Basic behaviour
5.3 Basic learning
5.4 Specific creature actions
5.4.1 The urges of feeding and sleeping
5.4.2 The eating of villagers
5.4.3 The art of throwing objects
5.4.4 The assisting in village duties
5.4.5 The importance of housekeeping
6. Village Management
7. Island specific tips and secrets
7.1 The first island
7.2 The second island
7.3 The third island
7.4 The fourth island
7.5 The fifth island
8. Silver scroll solutions
8.1 Quests on the first island
8.1.1 Throwing Stones
8.1.2 The Savior
8.1.3 The Lost Flock
8.1.4 The Singing Stones (1)
8.1.5 The Explorers
8.1.6 The Pied Piper
8.1.7 The Hermit
8.1.8 The Ogre
8.1.9 Mushroom cooking quest
8.2 Quests on the second island
8.2.1 The Plague
8.2.2 The Sacrifice
8.2.3 The Sea
8.2.4 The Singing Stones (2)
8.2.5 The Beach Temple Puzzle
8.2.6 The Greedy Farmer
8.2.7 The Idol
8.2.8 The Slavers
8.2.9 The Riddles
9. General Questions
9.1 Where can I find Easter eggs in the game?
9.2 How does one use miracle dispensers?
9.3 What makes the creature grow faster?
9.4 What do I need to do to unlock all the creatures?
9.5 How can I backup my creature?
10. Final Notes
11. Credits

2. INTRODUCTION

3. Yip , like i said (don't exist)

4. THE BASIC GAMEPLAY

First of all, there is no way to skip the tutorial. By
watching the Forums and various IRC channels, I'd say that
this is a very good feature (the manual is rather weak
anyway).
Second, read the signs.
Third, read the signs.
Always read the friggin' signs! Signs next to houses
contains valuable information about what's in the house and
how to operate it. Signs in the terrain can contain valuable
information on how to properly train your creature, or small
gameplay tricks, or even hints on how to accomplish certain
goals.

The game teaches you the basic gameplay very well, if you'll
just have the patience to look, and it will be much easier
than reading a tutorial (and if you are intelligent enough
to appreciate a long detailed tutorial, you have probably
learned your basic gameplay already, so I won't waste space
writing about it).

I will say this for a reminder, though: Leaving your hand on
an object is
Very useful (for example over a construction site where
you'll find out the exact amount of wood needed for
completition or over a village totem to find out how many
people your village has room for).

The sections below will go into a bit more detail. Note that
these sections try to cover both extremes. That is, if you
want a white, or even rainbow colored creature or hand, read
how to play good. If you want a black creature with horns,
and a red hand, read how to play evil. If you just want to
stay neutral, mix in a little of both.

4.1 PLAYING GOOD

Now this is a challenge. Here you will need to spend a lot
of time managing your villages, which is an utter pain. But
you cannot neglect your creature either, if you want it to
be good aligned too, and performing the two together can
initially be extremely difficult.

If you train your creature well though, you might be able to
leave it on it's own for an extended period of time, while
you are away managing your
villages.
Staying good means that you must have the flags of a village
storage raised as low as possible, or even not raised at
all. This is an enormous task in itself. But not only that,
you will have to carefully watch all your worshippers at the
temple shrines so they don't starve and die, which even
Blackie disapproves of!

You must also act passive, and avoid any killing whatsoever.
This means that taking full control of an island will be
done by sending missionaries, traders, yourself and your
creature to enemy villages to assist and impress them with
miracles, food and wood. The Flying Creatures miracle and
Heal also work fine to generate lots of belief.

It is unconfirmed though, that casting lots of heal on
villagers will cause them to live longer, and thus, in the
long run, increase faster in numbers since less people die
and disappear.

You can train your creature to only heal sick villagers,
though. Zoom in far and listen to pain sounds or watch for
crawling villagers, then target a heal miracle on them and
have the creature watch with the Learning Rope. This may
take time, though, since it's not often villagers get sick.

Also, don't overfeed your villagers, since with lots of food
comes the desire to breed, and with the desire to breed
comes the desire to expand,
and soon enough there won't be any empty spots on the island
to expand upon (much less any forests left).

As a good player, you can also sacrifice at the temple
shrines to get Prayer power, if you want. A shrubbery and
any other plant will work fine. Never try to sacrifice a
stone, though. It will cause damage to your shrine and
scatter your worshippers!

And even if you get attacked by an enemy, you cannot fight
back! Use the shield miracles to protect your villagers,
and try not to have your creature attack another creature
unless it's wreaking havoc in one of your village. Your
creature may get provoked into a fight as it is.

So if it is so frustrating to play good, what are the
rewards? Well, if you don't know the answer to that, my bet
is that your creature won't turn rainbow coloured anytime
soon. Some of the visual effects of playing good are: a
white temple, white hand, white creature, clear skies,
longer days, shorter nights and a rainbow over your temple.

4.2 PLAYING EVIL

First of all, evil isn't stupid and it isn't nasty. It's
sinister and devious. If you kill for fun, sure you are
evil, but you are mainly being blunt, and there's much worse
you can do than that. Try torturing people with fire
instead, starve them, wreck their homes, play catch with
your creature using villagers or just leave the creature
with the Aggression Leash on in one of your own villages...
Be creative.

Since you can do pretty much anything while being evil, I
won't dig deep into the details here. I will try to give out
a few usefully tips, though. Being evil will finally let you
ignore feeding the worshippers at your shrines. There are
much better ways of gaining miracle power than dancing.
Sacrificing new born children for example, is much more
effective.

Sacrificing your dead does also work.

If you want to wipe out a village, or atleast cause serious
damage, you can taint a food storage by throwing a toadstool
or poop in it. Some of the visual effects of playing evil
are: a black temple with spikes, red hand with long nails,
black creature which grows horns, red skies, and everlasting
nights.

5. CREATURE TRAINING

Be aware that you can only have ONE creature for each player
profile and that creature will be constant in ALL games you
play using it. It will grow older and remember everything
you have done, no matter how much you load the game or if
you pause your campaign to play a skirmish or multiplayer
game. The only way to reset a creature is to restart your
game. Your creature does not have to be of the same
alignment as you do. The creature can be so good it glows
white, while at the same time, your
Castle is growing spikes. Also note that initially the
Creature Help doesn't show up in the game, even if you have
it activated in the Options. The first time it will show up
is after you have activated the final golden scroll on the
first island, but it will stay activated after that, even if
you restart a new game or load an earlier save.

If you start an online game or a skirmish game though, the
creature help will also get activated and stay so, at least
until a part of the tutorial kicks in again, whereupon it
will become deactivated (so just save, start skirmish and
then load, to get it back).

5.1 BASIC KNOWLEDGE

In order to develop a healthy creature, you need to know
about it's vital
statistics. Those are the stats which can be seen when you
focus a creature, and are also the only stats which can kill
it. The vital stats are Damage, Hunger and Tiredness. In
order to develop a well trained creature, you also need to
know about a number of other statistics. These can be found
in the Creature Cave, and though they are not vital, they
still represents some sort of basic need for the creature.
Those stats which are non-vital are Exhaustion, Dehydration,
Strength, Fatness and Poop. In addition to this, there are a
number of trivial stats, which isn't really important to the
creature, but which may be important to you. These stats are
Alignment and Growth. Further, the creature uses Energy in
order to cast it's own miracles. All of these stats should
be kept as low as possible, with Energy as the only
exception. Energy gets lower when the creature casts a
miracle. When Energy runs out, it won't be able to cast
miracles any more and must feed in order to raise the stat
again. Illness and Warmth will be explained at a later
point.

When a vital stat gets maxed out, your creature will
collapse and Regenerate back in it's pen at your Temple. The
stat will still remain high after that, so you need to take
care of your creature in order to prevent it from collapsing
again. Have your creature collapse too much, and it will
shrink noticeably in size (although it will grow back in
size over time). Note that when a creature collapses, you
may still have a few seconds to try to fix the situation
(heal or feed it), if you are lucky.

Also, the creature will over time forget things, and may
have to relearn
it. The same goes for strength. It will need constant
exercise in order to keep itself fit and keep it's strength
up.

5.2 BASIC BEHAVIOUR

You should know that the creature knows a number of actions
by instinct. These actions are mostly those it uses to stay
alive, like sleeping, eating, drinking and pooping. But
encouraging or discouraging these actions may have several
different outcomes, which will be explained in a later
section. The creature can also learn a few new actions,
either on it's own or by copying you. However, the amount of
these actions are not that important. The thing which is
important are the variations of these actions. The creature
does not simply observe you doing something. It observs
exactly what you did, what you used and to what or whom you
did it! It can also learn whole series of actions in a later
stage.

Training a creature is accomplished by encouraging and
discouraging Different variations of actions by either
stroking or slapping the creature accordigly.

The way the creature carries out it's actions also
determines (or may be determined by) it's mental state. The
creature may show you how it is feeling if you focus on it
and you can also read alot about what is going on in it's
mind in the Creature Cave.

If you want your creature to like you more, pay more
attention to you or show you it's feeling more, just stroke
it when it asks for attention or wants to mess around (but
not too much, since that will only cause the creature to get
distracted and stop to look at you when your hand is near
it). Keep in mind that the creature's AI is very short-
sighted and not very reflective. It does not understand alot
of effects of it's actions so if there is a bad side-effect
on a particular action (either by accident or all the time)
only slap it if you do not want it to continue doing that
action anymore. For example, the creature always throws an
object over it's shoulder when it doesn't know what to do
with it. If that object damages anything (stone on a house)
or becomes damaged (villager down a cliff) the creature
don't know how to associate that event with what it just
did. So there is no way to punish it for that, as it doesn't
count as an action (neither can you slap the creature for
noticing either, since that is a separate action). You
simply have to wait until the creature has learned to
properly deal with the object, whereupon it will pick up and
put down the object properly.

5.3 BASIC LEARNING

If you want the perfect creature, hang around on the
tutorial island Until it has learned every possible thing to
be learned there (some spells will be unavailable as well
as certain methods for helping villagers). Your villages on
the tutorial island won't have any high demands (since you
can't build anything) and as long as you don't active the
final golden scroll, there is no time limit. Note that it is
rather hard to become immensely good during the tutorial
islands. This is probably due to not all features being
activated yet. For those of you interested in AI, the game
supports both supervised and unsupervised learning, as well
as reinforcement learning. A decision tree is also used to
select which action a creature will perform. The first
method of learning is simply to show your creature what to
do. Leash it with the Learning Rope and carry out the exact
action you want it to perform. Make sure that it is watching
you, or your actions will have little effect.

Note that you shouldn't stroke the creature for simply
noticing what you
Just did (it will point in the direction of your action, and
then look at
you). The real reward should come first after it has
properly copied your
action. Sometimes the creature will understand immediately
and copy you, sometimes, it takes forever to get it to do
the same thing as you.

A second method of learning is to let the creature find
things out by itself. But, if you let the creature wander
around and it accidently manages to learn something you
didn't want it to know about, you will have to spend a lot
of time supressing that behaviour, since nothing can be
"unlearned" once found out. In order to properly control a
creature's behaviour you need to catch it at a precise
moment in order to get a precise response out of it. If you
are too late in praising or punishing your creature, you may
affect a whole different action. This means that you may
need to anticipate what your creature is going to do. Get to
know your creature! This is the only way to be safe. You
sometimes also have to plan ahead. When you start out, the
creature will only perform basic stuff. Later on, you will
want it to carry out more complex series of actions, and if
you haven't taught it the basic stuff properly, it can be
too late when one of the basic things it got wrong is a part
of a more complex series of actions (for example, when
picking up a tree is a part of the being generous to
villagers action in order to resupply the storage).

Though the game says that handing the creature a one-shot
miracle will cause it to instantly cast it, it has to be
trained to cast those too (you will have to slap it for
eating or loosing the miracles). Note that your creature
may see more detail than you are aware of. If you cast, for
example, heal on healthy villagers and water on grown trees,
the creature
may do so too. A better way is to only cast heal on
unhealthy villagers and tiny trees. All of the above applies
for fighting too. Tell your creature to move around a lot,
and it will do it by itself after awhile. The same goes for
concentrating attacks on special body parts (note which
targeted body part carries out the different attacks you
want it to perform more).

5.4 SPECIFIC CREATURE ACTIONS

The previous sections were meant to be very general.
Anything you read in
Those sections can be applied to any action no matter what
creature you have. And if you can't get your creature to do
what you want, try again until it grasps the concept or
change your method of teaching. Please don't mail me simply
stating that you can't get your creature to do what you want
it to. It's not the creature who hasn't tried it's best,
it's you.

5.4.1 THE URGES OF FEEDING AND SLEEPING

***************** BUG WARNING!*****************************
When the creature eats fish by itself, it will lower that
creature's alignment! I do hope that this is a bug which
will be fixed, since fish is the absolutely best source of
food (and you cannot make diciple herders on your own in
order to make sure proper meat doesn't run out). Your
creature also seems to get hungrier whenever it eats fish,
which is fishy...

************************************************************

First of all, getting it to eat and sleep on it's own is
rather easy. However, trying to control how fast it gets
hungry and how fast it gets tired can be a nightmare.
Sometimes, the effects of slapping and stroking can seem to
be totally at random. In this section, you will find some
helpful tips, although you should still be very careful,
since they will not always work. Only slap or stroke your
creature a little bit a time, in order to minimize the
damage of a wrong outcome.

Since the creature will initially eat anything, sleep
anywhere and poop everywhere, basic training goal of basic
training will mostly be to control these behaviours. You may
have noticed that discouraging the creature from being just
generally tired may either make it sleep less, lie down less
on that location or become less tired. The outcome may seem
to be selected totally at random. Careful consideration is a
must before punishing or praising the creature. For example,
when it sleeps you have to factor in several things. How
sleepy was it? Was the creature exhausted or low on energy?
When did it go to sleep and where did it lie down? Your
creature will also initially eat any moveable object.
However, it has a built in learning factor here, since it
will puke up anything that isn't good for it (grain which
isn't ripe, for example).

The creature can also eat on by it's own initiative or by
command (rubbing the belly when given food). But before you
slap or stroke the creature for eating, there are a also
number of factors you must consider. Consider what it is
eating. Is it a food source which is good for him or not?
Does the source replenish itself fast or slow? Is it
stealing from someone? Is it eating because of hunger or
greed? To get a creature to eat more of a certain type of
food, just hand feed it with the food you want to increase
it's apetite for and stroke the creature after it has
finished eating. This will always make it appreciate that
type of food more (note that this isn't an exception to the
above rule since you carry out the action here and then
reward the creature for the effect). And yes, overfeeding
will cause it to poop more and get fat. To get it thinner
again, just keep it hungry a bit longer and don't feed it as
much for a period of time, and it's weight will go down.

Water is lacking a graph in the creature info (although you
can read it's
dehydration level in the Creature Cave), but it is not that
important since the creature always knows how to drink and
will do so when thirsty (and since it's not that often, you
shouldn't need to adjust it's drinking habits if you don't
feel you simply have to). There doesn't seem to be any way
to bring a creature water. Finally, fish would be the
recommended food for any creature, since fish regenerate
well without any care and it won't be considered stealing
from the village. Cattle and other animals regenerate much
slower and can run out if you're not careful (and though
herders help, there is a strange lack of a herding disciple
in the game).

5.4.2 THE EATING OF VILLAGERS

This can be considered a special case of feeding. Now you
either want to
Or don't want to have the creature eat villagers, depending
on you alignment. An untrained creature, even if it is a Cow
or a Sheep, will sooner or later eat a villager if you have
it wander the village hungry. Initially, this can work to
your advantage if you keep a close eye on your creature.
When the creature picks up a village, immediately focus it.
If it shows you that it is hungry, slap it silly. If it
doesn't show you it's intentions, unfocus and quickly click
on the ground next to it to make it drop the villager.
Stroke it for that action, if you wish. You can also slap
the creature after it has eaten a villager, but only if you
get the a Help Text saying that "your creature will eat more
of that stuff" (if you slap it without that text appearing,
you may affect another action). Also, stroke the creature if
you want it to continue eating villagers. Although, remember
that an empty village belongs to nobody, and that strength
comes in numbers.

And note that even if you have taught your creature not to
eat people From YOUR villages, there is nothing which stops
it from eating people from other, neutral or enemy owned,
villages. You'll have to teach it how to behave to other
villagers separately.

5.4.3 THE ART OF THROWING OBJECTS

--------------- REQUEST FOR INFORMATION! -------------------
You can give, or throw (if you have taught it to catch) the
creature a much larger object than it can normally be
commanded to pick up by itself. Does anyone know why this
is?

Throwing (as with kicking) seems to be an aggressive action,
so if you want a passive creature, slap it for throwing
stuff. The exception is when it is throwing trees or food
into the village storage, which doesn't beem to count
neither as a throw or an aggressive action (same goes for
when it's playful).

The biggest question seems to be how to get the creature to
throw stones.
But if you are looking to increase the strength of the
creature, remember that the sign said that the creature
needed only to be carrying stones. To exercise it, simply
give your creature a stone and action click on a piece of
ground away from it and walk or run it around the island for
a hile. The creature's strength will increase over time
because of this. Anyway, if your creature can copy you
throwing stones, all is well, and it should be praised for
it. Note that the creature will take notice of where you aim
your stone and even if you fetch the stone back or not. If
the creature refuses to copy your actions, things may get
more complicated. Action clicking on an object with a
leashed creature is tated to be the command of getting it to
pick the object up. However, his doesn't always work with
stones. A reason of this may be that the stone is too large.
But if you crush the stone into smaller pieces while the
creature is watching, it may very well copy that action
instead the next time it is told to pick up a stone, so be
careful.

A better course of action is to crush a number of stones far
away from the creature and have it travel there only after
they are the appropriate size. I personally can't see any
use in throwing an object other than a stone, so when the
creature tries that, just slap it to keep it from doing that
again. Also, don't make the mistake of praising it too
early. f you want it to throw a rock, don't praise it
immediately after it's picked the rock up, since it will
most definitely eat the rock instead. The creature can also
be trained to catch stones (and other objects...
Such as fireballs). Have it in a playfull mode and practice
with the beach ball. Just hrow the ball at it at the
appropriate height and it should try to catch it after
awhile. Then move on to other objects you want it to catch.
Sometimes, double-clicking on a spot on the ground when the
creature is holding a stone will make it throw the stone
there, but I haven't nailed down the details around this
yet, as it may run to that spot also.

5.4.4 THE ASSISTING IN VILLAGE DUTIES

---------------------- REQUEST FOR INFORMATION! ------------
Is it just me, or does the creature always seem to forget
how to use the
village store?
------------------------------------------------------------
******* BUG WARNING!********************************
If your creature picks up a villager who has just died and
turned into a
skeleton, the skeleton will come to life and walk around the
village! This may be a side-effect of the healing effect
being picked up by a creature instills, but it's still a
bug.

And if your creature decides to eat a Dead villager, it will
count asHaving killed a person! Also, some people do say
that the creature can make diciples other than breeders, but
I have seen NO evidence of this. The creature always seem to
create a diciple breeder if it cuddles a villager (even if
there is nobody around to "mate" with, and even if there
is, action clicking on the ground to make the creature drop
the villager will NOT produce a breeder). It must be a bug,
or have a really weird explanation.

If you play the game by micromanaging your villages, you
will almost certainly spend such a large amount of time
doing it that the creature automatically will adapt your
actions over time. However, if you do have trouble teaching
it to help villagers, have the creature leashed to you using
the Learning Rope, while you perform the actions you want it
to adopt. Performing the same actions in different ways may
also help. For example, the food storage can be filled by
either dropping, for example, rain on it or by casting a
food miracle on it. Note that having a creature leashed to a
building won't automatically make thecreature
interact with the building unless you have taught it what to
do. In fact, it seems to be a rather poor use of the leash
(except for a well trained creature, but even then,
unrestricting it's area of movement will most definitely
have it moving out of the village sooner or later). And, if
you do have your creature leashed to a building in the
village, make
sure you unleash it when it needs food and sleep, which it
otherwise might not prioritise. An area of trouble seems to
be if you want to have your creature deliver food to the
worshippers at your temple. This is very hard for it to
copy, since there doesn't seem to be a clear distinction
between the different parts of the temple to your creature
(it seems to regard the tower, the surrounding shrines and
it's pen as one and the same).

If you have taught your creature the Food miracle, however,
the best way
Is simply to leash it to the food desire flag on a temple
shrine and have
It figure out by itself that it should cast a miracle on the
worshippers. Remember to stroke the creature when it gets it
right. This method is very effective. Also, if your creature
is kind to the villagers, it may pick one up from time to
time, pat the villager a little and then put it back down.
That villager will then have a very high chance of turning
into a diciple breeder! This can happen very often with a
creature which is kind to villagers, so be watchful of your
creature so your villagers won't cause overbreeding which is
a nightmare. So, if you want your creature to continue being
nice to villagers, but not create that many breeders, leash
it the moment it picks up a villager. Then action click by
it's feet to make it put the villager down and make the
creature do something more usefull instead. The best thing
is to assign all diciples yourself. Remember which villagers
you put to work far from your village, and seek them out
when you have your creature leashed to the Learning Rope.
Diciples who work far from home have to travel great
distances and will have less time to go to the storage for
food or go home and sleep very often and because of this,
their health will deteriorate. So, cast Heal miracles on
these villagers and make sure your creature notices it. Then
give it a big reward when it casts Heal on a villager
itself. The deaths in the village will get lower over time
if your creature learns this well.

5.4.5 THE IMPORTANCE OF HOUSEKEEPING

********************* BUG WARNING! *************************
People in the forums are suggesting that crapping is evil
(you can't imagine how hard it was to type that sentence...
my mouth hurts from laughing). It sounds like another
alignment bug to me.
************************************************************

An untrained creature will have a rather high urge to poop
anytime and anywhere. It is uncertain how the villagers
react to having poop all over
The place, but I suspect that they might not approve. You
can actually teach your creature to stop pooping entirely.
To do this, slap it immediately when you first witness the
creature pooping against something.

Hopefully, the creature will still need to poop, and will
show you this By farting. Slap it again, but this time give
it a good go. Sometimes, this is enough to have it give up
ever wanting to poop again. (Though it's unknown if this
will have any damaging effect on the creature.) Although it
has been suggested that you should train your creature to
poop in the fields, it seems to be of little use.
Personally, I'd rather use the Water miracle, as it is much
more effective and pleasant.

6. VILLAGE MANAGEMENT

***************** BUG WARNING! ****************************
If you drop too much food in a temple shrine, the ENTIRE
PILE will be Gobbled up a second the next time a worshipper
decides to eat. Since you don't get any Prayer Energy for
this, a sacrifice of the leftover food hasn't been made, so
it would seem that this indeed is a bug!

The expand desire flag is also unreliable. Once you create a
construction
Site for a building, the flag will slide down and disappear
completely, but once the building is finished, it will pop
right up to the top again! A similar behaviour can be seen
on some fields, if you empty all food and sometimes when you
water them (field height will then jump up and down). Seems
like some graphical bugs to me, but still...

************************************************************
Though handling the creature might be a large part of the
game, next to managing a village, getting a creature trained
is a piece of cake. If you
Want to play really good, satisfying all the needs of the
villagers will
Become so time consuming that you might find it's suddenly
all you do. Now, I always knew that this was true in the
real world, but it's nice to
Find that they accurately portrayed this in Black & White
too: Animals are smarter than people! Humans are the most
annoying thing in the game. They are never satisfied, always
want more, they devour natural resources in seconds, breed
like rabbits and spread like locust. I will complain a lot
about expanding and breeding desires below, and since it is
vital to expand in order to gain more influence and power,
you might be puzzled as to why it's so bad. Well, the thing
is that if you are unlucky, villagers will want to expand
until there is no more room on the entire island, not even
for forests!

And forests are life. Without them, you will die.

A tip to keep easier track of all the villagers is to use
the "S" key, as
described in the manual, to activate small information
bubbles above each
villager. And note that villagers, although seemingly
originating from primitive cultures, may live until they are
well over eighty years old. Also understand that villagers
have their own unique personalities and attributes. If you
notice alot of people in your village "chilling out", you
may have a problem. Put these villagers to work immediately,
to prevent disillusion. Good diciples for these kind of
villagers would be fishermen, foresters or traders, since
they would have to walk alot, and not have time to sit down
much. Do monitor the health of people who work far away from
the village storage though, as lack of food and sleep will
affect their well being. And be aware that breeding one lazy
villager with another may produce an even lazier offspring.
Now the manual fails to highlight alot of things about how
demanding the villagers really are. In fact, there is a
whole evil circle involved in managing villages. First of
all, villagers will need food to survive. But too much food
will induce a desire for breeding, and satisfying breeding
will induce a desire for expanding from the offspring, which
in turn will require wood and thus raise the desire for
that. And after all the new villagers has new homes, they
must feed again and so the food desire once again goes up.
This, if not countered, will spiral your way towards your
doom. The first problem you encounter is usually that your
initial village has a maximum expansion desire. Now, to
expand, you will need wood, and you can't just keep giving
the villagers wood forever, since they will become
disillusioned. You will need forests near your village, and
a lot of them. Training your creature to water trees is a
very good idea as a couple of disciple foresters in a
village with a high forest desire can devour a huge forest
in no time.

Another problem with trees is that the stupid villagers cut
down the smallest trees first, which won't yield as much
wood and which will prevent the forest from growing at it's
fastest rate. Always water the small trees to counter this!
Also note that since the buildings you construct vary
depending on the current needs of the villagers and the
location your are trying to place it, you can sometimes get
a better building by trying a couple of different places
(this can be important with bigger houses, since they all
cost two scaffolds, but house different amounts of
villagers). The workshop is a very good target for the wood
miracle, with no risk of disillusion, since the villagers
won't deliver wood to it by themselves unless you assign
disciple craftsmen to it (which you definetly should do).
Construction sites are also equally good targets. This leads
to the second problem. The villagers won't deliver food to
your temple shrines no matter what you do! This is a
vertiable management nightmare since the shrines are the
source of your Prayer Energy. Temple shrines don't work like
the village storage either. You cannot dump a large amount
of food on a shrine and expect it to last. A large amount of
food dumped in a shrine will last nearly exactly as long as
a small amount of food. Instead, keep your deliveries
regular and don't concentrate on the amount of food, but
rather on whether the flag is up or not. The food desire
flag on a shrine should NEVER even be visible! You can get
the creature to deliver for you, but it can only carry small
amounts initially so it's a rather ineffective use of your
creature. Teach it to use the Food miracle instead and leash
it do the food desire flag on a shrine. This way, the
creature will automatically try to lower the flag using what
it has learnt.

Note that leashing the creature to the shrine altar won't
accomplish Anything (except if you have an evil creature, in
which case it may start
Sacrificing villagers). Worshippers produce Prayer Energy by
draining their own lives, so they will also need healing
from time to time, or they will die at the site (even if the
flag which indicates the need for sleep isn't visible at
all). Next up is breeding. This is the worst thing that can
happen, since when villagers decide they want to breed, it
will affect all other desires too, as mentioned above.
Breeding doesn't cost you anything to fix though, but the
consequences of too much offspring will. Note that male
breeders will impregnate more than one woman. A female
breeder will only produce offspring once every 9 months
(about one real minute). Select the gender of the breeder
according to your expanding plans for your village and your
current needs.

Finally we have food. This is the least of the problems, yet
it still is
A problem, since even though you can have one field per ten
villagers, a
Couple of diciple fishermen and a good supply of grain
coming into the storage regularly, if the storage isn't
extremely well loaded, the villagers will complain. Food
miracles cast on the storage by either you or your creature
in addition to many fields will remedy the situation,
though. But be careful, overfeeding will cause the desire to
breed to increase, and you'll soon get worse problems than
just disillusion on your hands. Civic building desire is the
only thing which isn't a problem, since only three kinds
exist, and after you've built them, the villagers will be
satisfied. The cr

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